Rio San Juan

If Lake Nicaragua was a giant bathtub, the mouth of the San Juan River at the tiny town of San Carlos, would be the drain. Water from the lake empties at a furious pace, winding its way though the river network before reaching the Caribbean Sea. From San Carlos, we took a 90-minute boat ride … More Rio San Juan

Los Guatuzos

The Refugio de Vida Silvestre los Guatuzos preserves a swath of land between the southern shore of Lake Nicaragua and Costa Rica. We learned that the area was slated for timbering in the 70s, but that was halted by the Revolution. The existence of now-cleared landmines thwarted development, and led to the protection of this … More Los Guatuzos

Solentiname Archipelago

A while back we learned of Chinese plans to build a new canal through Nicaragua. Of course the idea has been discussed for over a century. Its construction would threaten a unique area in southern Nica along the Rio San Juan, a huge river that drains lake Nicaragua into the Caribbean. Also, the Solentiname archipelago … More Solentiname Archipelago

Colorful Granada

Granada is a charming, walkable city. Located at the base of huge volcano that is shrouded in an ever-changing cloud forest. It’s the architecture that’s the real star of the place. Colorful buildings abound. Hidden gems abound wherever you look. Beautiful and tranquil gardens and courtyards hidden from view from the street. Every hotel and restaurant … More Colorful Granada

Volcán Masaya

The Volcán Masaya is about a half hour ride from Granada. It’s one of 28 volcanos in Nicaragua, 8 of which are active. It’s a great night-time experience to see a molten lava lake. But you have to look way down- it’s about 400 meters below the rim. This National Park wisely controls access to the … More Volcán Masaya

Las Peńitas

This 4 room lodge is a pleasant, relaxing spot. The owners from Spain created  it,  about 3 years ago. It’s not right on the beach, but the surf is only a short walk away. It’s a lovely lodge, with good healthy food, and  a pleasant New Age vibe. Las Peñitas is a small seaside village … More Las Peńitas

In the Clouds

We left the chilly US on January 16th and flew to Nicaragua. The temperature in Managua was in the high 80s. The next morning, we started our trip to an eco reserve in the cloud forest of the Nicaraguan highlands. We arranged for Geroges, the owner of Reserva Silvestra el Jaguar to pick us up … More In the Clouds

Garbage City

Not to be confused with the upscale Garden City section of Cairo, Garbage City at the base of Mokattam Hill, is a squalled part of town with a fascinating back story. A group of maligned but enterprising Copts, known as Zabbaleen, took on the job of clearing the city’s trash. Men, women, and unfortunately children, … More Garbage City

Coptic Cairo

The Coptic area was fascinating. Narrow streets and alleys wind through the quarter leading to one of the oldest sections of Cairo. It is largely built over the 3rd century AD Roman fortress of Babylon. The Coptic people are native Egyptians who were converted to Christianity in the 1st Century. Copts today comprise just about … More Coptic Cairo